Still in Pòtoprins. I'll be heading to Jakmel later today.

We've changed hotels to one closer to downtown called the Palace Hotel near Champs de Mars. It's pretty nasty, but it's cheaper (we got it down to US$40 for a double).

Two days ago, we had one of the most interesting experiences here in Ayiti (or anywhere I visited, honestly). The Vodou traditions here are very much kept under wraps it seems (not like religious traditions in other countries, outside of perhaps the Yezidis). However, when we visited the Cemetary of Pòtoprins, we were approached by a rather frightening-looking fellow who offered to show us around. He then brought two of his friends along, which was more than a bit unnerving, especially as this is an above-ground cemetary--the graves are not dug, but are in place as tombs. As we got deeper and deeper into the cemetary, we became more and more sure that we were going to get robbed, kidnapped, or killed. Remarkably enough, he just ended up taking us to a church in the center. Afterwards, he offered to take us to the "Bawon" (Bawon Sanmdi, made famous by a certain James Bond flick). We go with him. The cemetary begins to look more and more claustrophobic. It was probably a trick of the light, but it seemed to get a bit darker as well. We turn a corner. We hear screaming, crying. We look up to see a grand black cross, covered in fetishes and the blood of sacrificed chickens. Dead birds are strewn about. There's a crowd here, circled around two people: a gibbering man and a topless, flailing-about woman. The man falls into Kai's arms. He freezes, and our guide (Mesye Alexandre) yanks him free.

We saw a bit more of the cemetary, but then began to feel in even more danger, especially when our guide motioned to a man carrying a shotgun and he appeared behind another grave. We told Mesye Alexandre that we had had enough and he took us to the exit. We slipped him 200 Goud and emerged safe.

Strangly enough, the next day we ended up in the midst of an Aventist revival march, which ended in front of the national palace with some political slogans aimed at getting the government to support the people of Ayiti to a greater extent. I had another 'celebrity' experience of a bunch of people all vying for my attention. I don't think traveling is good for my ego.

By the way, it's not a good think to say "I got Goud up the ass". Personal experience - trust me.